Patrick Grant employed luxurious tailoring fabrics to create boyish, oversized sportswear, yielding one of the most compelling and youthful E. Tautz collections to date.

There was a charm to his roomy, high-waist shorts and pants in stiff cotton or selvedge denim; blousy shaker knits with awning stripes; and boxy parkas with neatly pressed flap pockets.

The seaside — and its unbuttoning effect on the introverted British — was the jumping off point for the collection, Grant said backstage, lauding the Fifties photography of Tony Ray-Jones that showed men loosening their office collars to slump on deck chairs. He also referenced Mods and rockers, work wear and leisure suits to conjure a chic, retro-tinged way to dress for a day off.

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