Matthew Miller drew his inspiration from the mass-produced, sober “demob” suits handed to Britain’s World War Two soldiers as they returned to civilian life. Miller cut similar suits in a patchwork of pinstripe fabric for cropped trousers and short jackets with patch pockets. He even took his scissors to denim fabric, creating rough-edged, pieced-together jeans.

The sober spirit of the demob suits also shone through in fly-front car coats with an oversized pleat at the back. Grosgrain straps with anti-war slogans on the clothing and small wreaths of dark flowers on models’ necks and wrists reinforced Miller’s sympathy for the former soldiers’ plight.

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