Could the long reign of the wan, scrawny male model — ignited more than a decade ago by Hedi Slimane — be coming to an end? Italo Zucchelli, men’s creative director for Calvin Klein Collection, is doing his part, casting an array of clean-cut, athletic models for his body-con collection. “It’s about skin,” he beamed backstage. “I like the idea of nonchalant elegance.” “Buff” was the name he gave to the fleshy color that dominated the show, a repetitive ode to racer-back tank tops worn in duplicate and gauzy muscle T-shirts, plus an occasional helping of strong-shouldered tailoring.
The powdery colors were sometimes striking, but then Zucchelli got mired in neon-colored PVC: zingy as side stripes on tapered pants; overheated on pullovers and blousons.