Daks took a new turn — but it was the wrong one — and the British brand known for its house check, reliable tailoring and luxury knits got well and truly lost in the badlands of bad taste. According to the show notes, creative director Filippo Scuffi wanted to “break all the rules…and embark on a new creative and stylistic journey,” and that he did.

This new look included gym shorts — the kind a 13-year-old might wear — that were made from dark suiting fabric or from leather, like abbreviated lederhosen. Scuffi paired them with lace-up shoes and dress socks that sagged around the ankles, and with tight–fitting sweaters that were dramatically slashed here and there, revealing models’ tattooed flesh.

He further mined this season’s athletic trend, designing trousers inspired by tracksuit bottoms, with zips at the ankle, leather piping, and drawstring waists. They were so snug, however, that models’ legs ended up looking like sausages in colored casings. There were a few exits that made sense, such as twinsets with a honeycomb pattern that came in a palette of soft neutrals, and cotton trousers cropped at the ankle – but that was it. One hopes Daks eventually finds its way home.

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