Lit from behind, the models lined up under a canopy of beams, casting a silhouette that read languid, tapered and youthful.
Stefano Pilati went for voluptuous, retro-tinged shapes for spring, pairing elongated jackets or enveloping, double-face coats with dramatically pegged, carrot-shaped trousers. Dry, subtly striped fabrics accentuated the waist-lengthening cut of the jackets, which stretched to the thumb knuckle.
During a preview, Pilati said his mind went to Thirties intellectuals in pin-striped suits. Stripes also pepped up knitwear: white bands coiling around the wrists of a loose navy sweater, or partially attached in a Venetian-blind grid for a 3-D take on the sailor top. Slip-on sneakers and Birkenstocklike sandals gave the show a casual, summery allure.
Pilati injected a lot of his idiosyncratic personal style into the collection, and probably a few too many quirks, including stray loops dangling from the hems of T-shirts, and giant, unfinished pant cuffs. There were also shades of his pre-Yves Saint Laurent alma mater — Prada — in the thrift-shop palette of the finale suits.