In a Milan men’s season that’s turning out to be a bit of an Armani-esque moment, with fluid shapes and relaxed silhouettes, the designer called his own spring collection “Echoes of Armani” — but Tuesday’s show was never meant to be a passeggiata down memory lane. “Otherwise, I would have just looked at my old videos and photos,” said an unsentimental Armani, adding that his aim was to spin the brand’s DNA into something fresh — but still timeless and transformative. “The clothing has to be worn by a variety of men; it has to last and to transform the body,” said the designer, who sent out shapes to suit every man, in a color palette the designer described as “barely there.”
He opened the show with belted trenches as fluid as silk dressing gowns, and later sent out legions of trousers — some loose, pleated and gathered gently at the ankle, others narrower and straighter but always with room to move — and deconstructed jackets with that gentle Armani shoulder. Sweater jackets — in solids or thick stripes — hugged curves while lightweight leather biker ones, some with toggle fronts, traced broad shoulders and powerful builds (not for Armani the pale, weedy model).
Colors included watery green and blue, faded cornflower and cinnamon for suits, and white like an overcast sky for coats. Armani said his hope for the future is that men have the courage to cast off their sharp edges and adopt ever-softer silhouettes — jersey tops instead of stiff shirts, and jackets “with nothing to them.”