Jil Sander’s spring collection was the last design team effort before the September debut of its new creative director, Rodolfo Paglialunga.
The team translated the vibrations that music creates on the surface of water — a highly conceptual approach — into a practical urban wardrobe. Suits came in a cotton-nylon fabric whose surface texture mimicked the rippling patterns. Relaxed yet city-smart, the tailoring studiously followed the house’s heritage: three-button jackets with a high outward-oriented shoulder, a slim front and volume in the back.
Elsewhere, stiff, ultradry Japanese cotton assumed a subtle movement via built-in drawstrings on the inside of a trouser featuring a particularly large waist and colored stripes running down the sides of each leg.
In a soothing palette of grays, lime, nude and bleached purple, the collection oozed a calm and clean vibe.