A member of the Communist Party in her pre-fashion days, Miuccia Prada waved the flag for conservative chic for spring. “I think that was the only new thing possible,” she said backstage, dressed in a black sweater and pleated skirt. “It’s not a moment for crazy.”
She also expressed a wish to design “something that you want, something that is real.”
Fashion doesn’t get any more real than jeans — the jumping-off point for trim coats, suits and pants decorated with outsize contrast stitching. Whether made of denim or lustrous wools, Prada’s neatly tailored blazers, jean jackets and leisure suits had that inimitable verging-on-thrift-shop quality.
Patterned shirts and snug V-neck sweaters heightened the Seventies mood — as did the show set of bleachers paved in chocolate brown carpeting. They encircled a swimming pool that glowed Yves Klein blue.
Prada is serious about building its men’s business after a rare wobble in its first-quarter profits — and this sober collection, rooted in classics, took few chances.
The designer injected more whimsy into the dozen or so women’s looks she paraded. Retro skirt suits and prim cocktail dresses were outlined with the same stitching motif, including a few with crystal embroideries. They stole the show.