Tillmann Lauterbach put the spotlight on eye-teasing fabric innovations. Consider a gray-on-gray ensemble of boxy, cropped pants — the collection’s key item — and an elongated blazer with a raincoat. What looked like paper smeared with ash was in fact coated cotton. Elsewhere, the designer took ribbons of water-resistant treated paper to knit handsome mosaic sweaters, while his take on denim — finished off by hand with paint splatters — was exceptional.

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