In his first collection since being officially named creative director of Ann Demeulemeester, Sébastien Meunier stuck to the codes of the brand and did the founder proud with a light-hearted collection that played out in a monochrome and nude palette.
Looks were layered yet retained a sense of lightness and romance, thanks to featherweight or sheer fabrics like the pastel organza that was cut into strips and pieced together on candy-stripe jackets and coats. These carried undertones of 18th-century garments, as did the sleeveless vests that were spliced into some of the looks. Crinkled, raw-edged tunics added a layer of toughness. There were decorative effects, too, but always done with a light hand. A white parka was stitched with a delicate ecru floral pattern, while tone-on-tone embroidery glistened from the mandarin-collared black coat that closed the show.
Music has always been a powerful antiwar tool. The disco-ball reflections on the lilac and golden micro-printed single- and double-breasted ensembles yelled, “Let’s not make war, let’s dance!”