With his ever-present sense of irony, founder Jean Touitou introduced the collection by saying: “This house is not the house of ‘normcore,’ and I am done with minimalism,” before introducing a selection of understated Nineties-inspired looks that nevertheless included a first for the brand — a print sweater.

The collection included sharp high-waist fitted jeans; tight short-sleeved shirts, and classic sailor T-shirts in a muted palette with lots of denim. Co-designer Louis Wong also presented his Louis W. by A.P.C. capsule of beautifully cut bomber jackets in materials including super-soft suede.

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