The men’s studio under the artistic direction of Alexander Wang looked to nautical uniforms for spring, giving them a modern edge via experimental fabrics.

Consider a lightweight peacoat made of leather bonded to jersey knit; mackintosh fabric sailing coats and jackets with taped seams and contrasting leather belts; or trenchcoats in coated technical canvas.

Precise tailoring came in wool mohair in shades of gray, black or blue with longer, boxy jackets and pleated Bermudas in lieu of pants.

Simpler pieces were striking, such as suede T-shirts with magnetic snaps, or papery leather tunics and shirts. Even a white T-shirt was worked in double-faced knit and finished with grosgrain ribbon at the collar and sleeves. It was a clean base to start building a new masculine identity for Balenciaga.

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