Olivier Rousteing follows Neymar on Instagram and is rooting for Brazil in the FIFA World Cup. But it was Seventies icons of downhill skiing, motorcycle racing and Formula 1 that informed his graphic and energetic spring collection.

“Balmain is about sexiness and sport,” he said as models marched through the showroom in their open-toe mountain boots. His jogging pants with athletic stripes or motocross padding often matched the color-blocked Perfecto jackets or hoodies worn on top, approximating a jumpsuit look. Black, white and red are the key team colors.

Rousteing winked to formalwear and military dress with his neatly piped blazers and cardigans in jersey, and flexed the atelier’s muscles with ponchos and biker jackets beaded in intricate Navajo patterns. Racy, indeed.

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