What is bespoke tailoring, if not catering to customers’ tastes? Noticing that a growing number of men were requesting made-to-measure jeans, leather jackets and other casual items, Berluti creative director Alessandro Sartori decided to devote his spring collection to leisure pursuits.
For starters, he traded the house’s trademark loafers for sneakers, which were worn with everything from paper-touch waxed linen suits — in shades ranging from clay to olive, sunflower and violet — to a more informal combination of chinos with jackets made from cashmere-soft leather in nubuck, suede and napa finishes.
A handmade sports shoe constructed by master boot-makers from a single piece of leather, the Playtime launched in a limited run of 100 pairs worldwide the day after the show.
While the tailoring erred on the side of conservative, with a slightly longer suit jacket, there was plenty of innovation in the materials. These included a lightweight silk, normally used for shirts, that was glazed with a protective film to make it suitable for a trenchcoat.
Origami techniques were used to shape the pockets and lapels of suit jackets, as well as a backpack made of leather so thin that it can be folded flat into a rectangle.