There was a military vibe to Boris Bidjan Saberi’s men’s collection, with the primarily green, black and khaki looks veering from past seasons’ athletic and nautical themes.

The cult German-born designer went for low-slung shorts, jumpsuits and some gender-bending pieces, such as long tops resembling dresses. Layering was key and involved, for example, a loosely knitted sweater over an asymmetric leather jacket or a tunic overlapping more fitted trousers.

Many models wore large backpacks, and all sported flying-acelike helmets in latex. Those accessories, plus a rib-cage-rattling soundtrack, added to the combat feel.

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