A four-seat Cessna airplane was dissected and strung over the circular catwalk at Givenchy, exploding in four directions, an installation by Dutch artist Paul Veroude. Was it a signal of the military undercurrent in Riccardo Tisci’s spring men’s wear, full of multipocket aviator jackets dangling ripcord zipper pulls? Or was it perhaps symbolic of a designer pulled in too many directions?
The tailoring was strong and sharp, contrary to the prevailing loungewear mood in men’s wear this season. Shoulders were defined, lapels peaked and the fit taut, harking back to earlier Tisci collections for Givenchy.
Graphic bands, the collection’s main decorative motif, were applied like warning tape; crisscrossing white shirts, bisecting polo shirts or strapped across the backs of filmy Windbreakers or beefy stadium coats. A primarily black and white palette telegraphed a dark, sober mood.
Paint splatters and baby’s breath flowers were the other prints, worn in familiar athletic pileups. The show climaxed with a glimpse of something new, unexpected and slightly jarring: pearl embroideries swirling on gauzy black T-shirts or clustered on the floral prints, adding a 3-D aspect. Despite that touch, the collection lacked the electricity that Tisci usually delivers.