The faded beauty of a decaying Parisian town house — the setting for Haider Ackermann’s spring presentation — had a lot in common with his clothes: a lived-in look and tons of character.
Having helped nudge men’s fashion in a lounge-y direction, Ackermann raised his game for spring with compositions of dusty colors, upholstery patterns and rolled-out-of-bed dishabille. Skinny trousers in shiny leather or striped linen twisted around the legs, adding a glam-rock aspect to his decadent style. Tank tops that may well have been slept in sagged and spilled under jackets, their prison or sailor stripes mingling with chinoiserie silk or crushed velvet on blousons, not to mention the vests in glistening chevron jacquards and the untucked shirts in necktie patterns.
Ackermann cast a spell with this show, casting Saskia de Brauw and Liya Kebede to join his band of gangly bohemians. On the basis of their outfits alone, each looked like they had an interesting story to tell.