Normally, a parachute fabric would not be considered overtly elegant, yet the design team at Maison Martin Margiela made it look that way on long, languid coats worn over breezy shirts and blazers. Done in glossy rust, light beige and sunflower yellow, the collection’s light and fluid trench and car coats looked as easy to wear as a T-shirt, yet surprised with their sensual sense of refinement and natural cool. Elsewhere, a tightly belted safari jacket gave a pair of tuxedo pants a sporty feel. Neoprene backing did the same to a leather perfecto.

The show was fresh and compelling, though not without mishaps. Tailored pants with mismatched legs, or with pant legs of mismatched lengths and fabrics, were without rhyme or reason.

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