Perhaps as a reminder that his men’s wear comes from a raw and restless place, Raf Simons asked the audience to stand for his spring show, staged in a raw space that was previously a bank. Young models whisked down four “paths” demarcated on the floor with packing tape. The lighting — through red tinged lamps — was dim and eerie.

Trim coats with middy collars extended down the back were the main statement, each flap plastered with images, like the wall of a teenage bedroom or a Tumblr spill. Koi fish, astronauts, roller coasters and Japanese script figured prominently, rooting this collection in some nightclub in Tokyo’s Shinjuku. Some of the sneakers, layer cakes of colorful foam, glowed like jellyfish.

Simons continued with the collages he did last season, when he shared his label with California artist Sterling Ruby. Patches, crests and photos were positioned here and there on cotton parkas or sturdy denim shirts.

 

The trim black suits were striking, pinned on skinny pants and occasionally with the sleeves hacked off. Athletic tanks appeared to be made of mesh, but may have been perforated leather, while others seemed intricately beaded with Japanese woodblock motifs.

Even in the near dark, these clothes — while at times repetitive — were immediately identifiable as the work of Simons, and undeniably cool.

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