Thom Browne played the game of “Tron” for spring. Harking back to the sci-fi classic by Steven Lisberger, the show was divided into two parts, showcasing two essentially different collections.
Part one kicked off with futuristic, laser saber-wearing guards walking between a group of masked models, sitting orderly in their gray suits, coats or jackets — all new reinterpretations of Browne’s famous gray suit. But Browne was in an even more experimental mood this season, with “modern” and “future” spooking his mind.“Did they glow in the dark?” he asked backstage after the show. They did — along with the models’ neon-coated nails.
In part two, an army of sci-fi gamers boasted what Browne referred to as “tectonic” compositions. Consider blazers, Bermuda shorts, pants and vests constructed from partially moving panels, which were based on the actual human anatomy, though “in a futuristic way,” as the designer explained. Other numbers, such as tartan varsity and short-sleeve tuxedo jackets, had some heavy padding, further feeding into this season’s combative theme.
Browne did not skimp on the fabrics, either. Both collections impressed with embroidered seersuckers, noble silk jacquards and madras plaids developed especially for the show, along with Browne’s very own registered tartan pattern.