Glenn Martens employed reflective materials on athletic drawstring pants (his signature) and tank tops. Linen came waxed and oiled, somewhat illuminating the essentially dark and moody collection.

Elsewhere, the pieces riffed off sci-fi attire as in bathrobe-like Jedi coats and asymmetrical, collar-less jackets featuring multiple seams. But the show-stopper was the silk and linen trenches, which had a handsome, retro swagger via their elaborate paneling and clever button placement.

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