Medieval warrior monks might not be everybody’s inspiration, but in Alexandre Plokhov’s universe, they fit right in.


“My collection is based on a book I read, ‘The Mongoliad’ by Neal Stephenson. It’s about warrior monks and how each clan is separated by color,” the designer said.


That was how Plokhov also structured his show, with groups of black, yellow, red and white. Flowy sheer ponchos, drop-crotch pants and face-painting aside — which admittedly are a lot of styling tricks to overlook — the collection was full of strong directional pieces such as a sleek trench with zipper detailing, and an unconstructed tonal seersucker blazer and a utility-inspired jumpsuit.


There was interesting patchwork craftsmanship adorning shirts and pants, showing Plokhov’s ability to show texture within a tonal palette.


“I took incompatible material from seasons past for bombers, shorts and sweatshirts,” he said.


The return of Plokhov and his unique aesthetic to the runway added a new dimension to NYFW: Men’s.

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