For a designer, stepping out of his comfort zone is never easy. It requires courage, which Damir Doma demonstrated with his coed spring show. But while his audacity can be lauded, the results can’t be. This season, Doma moved away from his signature conceptual aesthetic infused with a kind of intriguing spirituality to embrace a new contemporary, urban approach.
The designer introduced several colors, including lilac and bright green, along with developing street silhouettes, such as oversize shorts, hoodies and patchwork denim pants. He also created an ath-leisure capsule with Italian sportswear company Lotto, including tank tops, polos, tracksuits and Windbreakers.
But instead of generating something seamlessly cool, the different elements instead seemed out of sync. There was something forced about the tank tops layered over roomy suits with laced-up details and the acid printed oversize hoodie worn over a silk dress. The color combinations — such as rust and purple, and emerald and lilac — were also unconvincing.
While Doma no doubt has the skills to put a new spin on his brand, what’s clear from this collection is that streetwear isn’t the direction to take.
More From Milan Men’s Spring 2018 Collections:
Salvatore Ferragamo Men’s Spring 2018: A summer on the Italian Riviera inspired Guillaume Meilland’s young and effortless chic collection.
Versace Men’s Spring 2018: It was vintage Versace through the Millennial lens, and those who are already fans won’t be let down. But there could have been so much more.
Ralph Lauren Purple Label Men’s Spring 2018: The collection centered on taking the best from the past and repackaging it for a new generation.
Ermenegildo Zegna Men’s Spring 2018: The laid-back ath-luxe mood was elevated by impressive material research.
Emporio Armani Men’s Spring 2018: The Asian-inspired collection featured clever plays on layering.
Marni Men’s Spring 2018: Francesco Risso injected a childlike, free-spirited feel into this effortless cool collection.