With personalized, inimitable product the new luxury, Alessandro Sartori continues to ramp up the savoir-faire at Zegna.
Impressive techniques included handmade shadow effects mimicking elbow patches and edging the pockets of a perforated suede blouson, and a woven jacquard jacket entirely hand-embroidered at the back, courtesy of one of two nimble-fingered artists recently tapped for the house’s design studio (the other specializes in paintbrush effects.)
Silhouettes were tactile yet light, like the silky blouson-cum-shirts that inflated in movement. The laid-back mood extended to the ath-luxe mix deconstructed jackets, scoop-neck knits, joggers and jackets dotted with oversize handmade patch pockets. The T-shirts in stretch leather mesh and the silk tops with painterly bamboo prints were terrific.
The handiwork extended to the brand’s triple-stitch logo criss-crossing the see-now-buy-now Tiziano sneakers. They carried on, explained Sartori during a preview of the collection, from an idea introduced by the house’s former head of design Stefano Pilati, inspired by the double stitch used on tailor-made jackets to end the cuff or collar.
The day after the show, 12 show looks from the Ermenegildo Zegna Couture line will be available to order in a selection of the house’s boutiques worldwide, with delivery within eight weeks. Having launched its bespoke service in March, the house for spring 2018 will also launch a personalization service where any garment or accessory from the main collection can be customized using handmade knotting, painting and embroidery techniques by Zegna artisans.
That Sartori chose the Università Statale, a place where he would come to read and sketch as a student, added another unique touch to the event. The designer had transformed his favorite courtyard into a blazing burnt-tangerine set dotted with a lone tree and silver cubes onto which the models climbed for the show’s close. The collection’s earth tones, bleached aqua, earth and antique pink stood out beautifully against the desert-like landscape.
It sure broke away from the site’s “Dead Poets Society” vibe, with this message of taking heritage someplace new. “It’s how I see the place in a modern way today for this collection,” said Sartori. “It’s my idea of a secret garden.”
More From Milan Men’s Spring/Summer 2018 Collections:
Watch: Alessandro Sartori on The Making of the New Ermenegildo Zegna Collection