The ghosts of Chateau Marmont was the storyline, with pale and interesting types wandering the corridors in black T-shirts with dripping candle prints, lemon cotton coats or shirts in an equally icky shade of “emergency exit” green.
The older residents sported revisited tuxedo jackets with draped shoulders and the proportions pulled down, or fancy jackets in gold and black Italian jacquard in motifs mixing florals, the house logo and medieval axes. “The fabric reminds me of L.A. villas,” Dorian Stefano Tarantini said backstage, adding that the Nineties-inspired washed denim items and rock ‘n’ roll elements nodded to London’s Camden Town. Sheer plastic window panels were a leitmotif.
But the phantoms weren’t all confined to the hotel’s walls. Luxe beach, surf and activewear references abounded. There were somber reinterpretations in black silk, but also fun tri-color Chateau Marmont sweatshirts and skater suits with shorts and sheer paneling details at the shoulder that were dyed — or should it be died? — a punchy shade of swimming pool blue.
See More From the Men’s Spring Shows:
Corneliani Men’s Spring 2018: The sport-chic collection was themed around the leisure pursuits of the house’s well-to-do customers.
Plein Sport Men’s Spring 2018: Philipp Plein recruited boxers, wrestlers and pole dancers to demonstrate the functional qualities of his fast-growing luxury athletic line.
Prada Men’s Spring 2018: All the quirk and romance of the fall collection was swept away — in a moment — by Miuccia Prada, who sent her preppy nerds and rustic hippies packing.
Damir Doma Spring 2018: The designer stepped out his comfort zone to deliver a collection focused on an urban, street look.
Munsoo Kwon Men’s Spring 2018: The young Korean designer Munsoo Kwon lit up the Teatro Armani runway with a burst of flowers and bright stripes in a collection called “YOLO (You Only Live Once).”
Sulvam Men’s Spring 2018: There was a charming spontaneity to the layered flowing looks which celebrated the artisanal process.