“Fashion is one of the most brutal sports, you run from one show to the other, have to design, sell, open stores, motivate people, organize,” said Philipp Plein, who for the second show for his fledgling luxury athletic line recreated a fight club atmosphere replete with professional wrestlers in cages, fronted by a row of pole dancers in sports bras and itsy bitsy bottoms marked with the slogan #girl power.
“It’s not really a ‘fashion,’ fashion brand, it’s an active sportswear brand. We want to make intelligent clothes. Normally function follows design, here design follows function,” added Plein backstage before the show, adding that the qualities of the materials included anti-perspiration properties.
But this was no wallflower workout gear, with a palette spanning graphic combinations of black-and-white to metallic accent strips and neon pops.
The women’s line focused on bodies, leggings, shorts and sweatshirts, with items ranging from pink leggings and low-slung track pants to gold bombers.
The men’s included hoodies, track pants, shorts and T-shirts, and performance footwear, with among the embellishments piping accents and metallic graphics as well as a camouflage print based on a tiger’s scratch. With boxers pounding punch bags to “Eye of the Tiger” in the background, there were also the motivation slogans, including “Fear No One.”
See More From the Men’s Spring Shows:
Corneliani Men’s Spring 2018: The sport-chic collection was themed around the leisure pursuits of the house’s well-to-do customers.
Prada Men’s Spring 2018: All the quirk and romance of the fall collection was swept away — in a moment — by Miuccia Prada, who sent her preppy nerds and rustic hippies packing.
Damir Doma Spring 2018: The designer stepped out his comfort zone to deliver a collection focused on an urban, street look.
Munsoo Kwon Men’s Spring 2018: The young Korean designer Munsoo Kwon lit up the Teatro Armani runway with a burst of flowers and bright stripes in a collection called “YOLO (You Only Live Once).”
Sulvam Men’s Spring 2018: There was a charming spontaneity to the layered flowing looks which celebrated the artisanal process.