Teppei Fujita, a former pattern-maker for Yohji Yamamoto who was shortlisted for the 2017 LVMH Prize, likes to celebrate the beauty of imperfection. For his debut Milan show, the designer, whose process is based on deconstructing patterns, likened his approach to an “improv jam session,” favoring instinct and emotion over concept. “With all of the bad things happening in the world, I just wanted to create something light,” he said backstage.
There was a charming, just-got-out-of-bed spontaneity to the layered flowing looks, with Fujita throwing a black synthetic T-shirt over a superlong white shirt over a deconstructed seersucker skirt.
He enhanced his artisanal approach through roughly hewn seams with fluttering fabric accents, frayed navy and ivory contrast linings that peeked out from under seersucker jackets and pants, and raw-edge denim patch pockets that created the illusion of cutoff shorts on jeans. Cropped black and mustard leather pants sported visible joints and zips at the back of the leg allowing the wearer to adjust the volume.
Other key items included sarouel bondage pants that, worn over white tights, infused a historical note in the poetic East-meets-West collection.
More From Milan Men’s Spring 2018 Collections:
Salvatore Ferragamo Men’s Spring 2018: A summer on the Italian Riviera inspired Guillaume Meilland’s young and effortless chic collection.
Versace Men’s Spring 2018: It was vintage Versace through the Millennial lens, and those who are already fans won’t be let down. But there could have been so much more.
Ralph Lauren Purple Label Men’s Spring 2018: The collection centered on taking the best from the past and repackaging it for a new generation.
Ermenegildo Zegna Men’s Spring 2018: The laid-back ath-luxe mood was elevated by impressive material research.
Emporio Armani Men’s Spring 2018: The Asian-inspired collection featured clever plays on layering.
Marni Men’s Spring 2018: Francesco Risso injected a childlike, free-spirited feel into this effortless cool collection.