What appeared like a denim shirt stood right at the entrance of Tod’s presentation at Villa Necchi Campiglio. Look again — it was suede. Men’s creative director Andrea Incontri explained that “the idea was to treat leather as if it were a fabric.” It was a guessing game throughout the lineup. Differentiating the linen and cotton jacket with epaulettes from the bleached leather jacket was no easy feat. But, after all, this is Tod’s, which is known for its leather expertise.

Incontri was on trend, working striped patterns on bomber jackets and shirts, and he also introduced a new motif, which he called “cloudflage,” a mix between a cloudy design and camouflage.

The designer had freedom on his mind, starting from the way he rearranged Tod’s staple gommino moccasins on the displays. “They should look casually tossed off, not perfectly lined up,” he said, untidying a colorful group of said footwear. That also telegraphed a new ease into the mixing and matching of colors and prints.

A vacation mood was reflected in a capsule called Surf Life, shown on a sandy set against a group of surf boards covered in colorful strips of leather. The line was made up of sneakers with a fun new Tod’s logo splayed on the sides.

That said, Incontri also showed more formal looks in the fun, luxurious collection, including three-piece suits with vests in a beautiful ocean blue tone. “Blue is my favorite color,” he said simply.

But he went beyond blue with the introduction of an orange capsule of accessories including a new reporter’s bag and a messenger bag. “This is very important for us, we’ve been doing it for the past three seasons and it’s performing very well,” he observed.

More From Milan Men’s Spring 2018 Collections:

Prada Men’s Spring 2018: All the quirk and romance of the fall collection was swept away – in a moment – by Miuccia Prada, who sent her preppy nerds and rustic hippies packing.

Salvatore Ferragamo Men’s Spring 2018: A summer on the Italian Riviera inspired Guillaume Meilland’s young and effortless chic collection.

Versace Men’s Spring 2018: It was vintage Versace through the Millennial lens, and those who are already fans won’t be let down. But there could have been so much more.

Ralph Lauren Purple Label Men’s Spring 2018: The collection centered on taking the best from the past and repackaging it for a new generation.

Ermenegildo Zegna Men’s Spring 2018: The laid-back ath-luxe mood was elevated by impressive material research.

Emporio Armani Men’s Spring 2018: The Asian-inspired collection featured clever plays on layering.

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