Aitor Throup and his team deconstructed denim to explore its possibilities for the third experimental G-Star Raw Research collection, which offered designs for men and, for the first time, women as well.
Three distinct sections — raw ecru denim, indigo and brightly dyed fabrics — explored new ways of looking at and rebuilding the casual staple, integrating utilitarian and military influences.
A new jeans style, the Spiraq, was built from a single piece of denim wrapped around the leg, giving an ergonomic shape, and was particularly appealing in a wide-leg, cropped style for women. Jackets and coats featured multiple outsize pockets held on with Velcro, and pants and a skirt built parachute details into their structure.
Throup said he had wanted to look at denim in a new way by pulling the production process apart and avoiding mental shortcuts. “Industrialization leads to standardization,” he said. “By deconstructing it you learn to isolate those elements and bring our new possibilities for denim.”
Each piece in the collection is available in 15 bright colors as well as ecru and indigo, and the plan is for different retailers (the Raw Research collection is sold in select multibrand stores) to stock basic shades and a selection of others, making the offer in each point of sale unique. The line will hit stores in December.