John Galliano is up in arms for pre-fall at Christian Dior with a fetching military theme that revisits the best of wartime style. Tailored army greens battle for attention with delicate and featherlight Edwardian dresses, some printed with faded English rose wallpaper prints. Lambskin is treated to look as if it were rubberized with a very matte finish, while ultradelicate dresses boast frills of Chantilly lace and delicate, lingerie details like bows and pintucked seams. For evening, Galliano’s Forties sirens wear sinuous, draped gowns dipped in sequins and feathers, and topped with fluffy fur coats, evoking Visconti’s “The Damned” and channeling the sulfurous attitude of Hollywood icons of yore.


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