As a starting point for pre-fall, Stefano Pilati looked to Mr. Saint Laurent’s fall 1977 “Opium” collection. Still, only a few elements, such as the archive print of colorful autumn leaves on an oriental landscape or the black leather cheongsam dress with cap sleeves, were totally Eastern in spirit. The rest of the clothes were infused with Pilati’s urban-chic obsession, topped off with a bit of sportif: The detachable fox-fur hood that can be worn with a big black cashmere coat or on a python-printed chiffon blouse is a prime example. Python, actually, was one of the collection’s leading motifs, similar to the dangerous sensuality of the “Opium” woman.

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