Pringle’s showroom at Brown’s Hotel in Mayfair, London was an oasis of woolen warmth this week as unseasonable, subzero temperatures swept through England and snowstorms blanketed the north. Pringle’s creative director, Clare Waight Keller, turned out a Sixties-inspired pre-fall collection that was packed with textured, handmade knitwear, felted wools — and beaver fur.
“There’s a lot of focus on knitwear and interpreting our archives in a modern way,” said Waight Keller during a walk-through of the collection, which Pringle plans to show in New York on December 6. “I was inspired by Pringle’s advertising from the Sixties and Seventies, by David Bailey’s shots of Jean Shrimpton, and by all of the houndstooth and tweed fabrics worn with our twinsets in those ads.”
A Sixties silhouette, in fact, dominates the collection — there are coats made from herringbone tweed knits with leather piping, while sleeveless wool dresses have a supersize argyle weave down the front. Wool and cashmere minidresses are paired with double-breasted boiled wool coats, and shapely cape coats and reversible ponchos are a staple of the season. The star of the collection is a beaver coat with a detachable collar and hand-knitted cashmere details.