Exploring his softer side for pre-fall, Alexander Wang showed fluid, loosened-up silhouettes for a look the designer dubbed “rough-refinement.” He tempered his usual boyish stance with touches of subtle femininity — a slight ruffle on a silk skirt or sheer chiffon panels on a leather shirtdress. But the news here was as much about the collection itself, which worked a dark palette of black, espresso and navy, as the business behind it. Because of its longer shelf life, Wang beefed up the size of his pre-fall collection — “this will showcase the core elements,” he said — and is in the process of tightening up his fall one, which will become increasingly more directional. “I’m giving the buyers the bread and butter,” Wang remarked, “and the dessert later.”

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