“It’s a collection of contrasts,” said Yeohlee Teng about the collection she designed for pre-fall, or what she likes to call “the fifth season.” She paired baggy pants with tailored jackets, shiny fabrics with matte ones and cotton with leather. Long vests made a strong presence, sometimes shown with shorts, which she said she plans to show again for winter. Other key ingredients: cylinder-shaped skirts and dresses, dramatically placed pleats throughout and lots of gray.

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