Contrast, elongated lines and masculine-feminine variety — add them up and you have Maison Martin Margiela’s pre-fall collection. The layered coats and jackets were often sliced, or with a trompe l’oeil effect for capelike looks. Blocks of shaved rabbit fur and flannel turned a jacket sharp and graphic, while nappa leather suits took on a slouchy, men’s pajama feel. There were also some references to Margiela’s past collections, i.e. pleated polyester skirts cut on the bias and dresses with leather sleeves.