As Olivier Theyskens sees it, the ultimate modern wardrobe requires beautiful dresses and luxurious fur jackets, such as the gorgeous patchwork fox and rabbit styles he showed, but “you also need the coolest rock ’n’ roll T-shirt and the best jeans,” he said. On the more formal side, there were silk dresses with long skirts that cut away over a short underlayer and filmy, wide-leg pants veiled in a sweeping skirt in the back. The silhouette was quite elegant, yet infused with Theyskens’ undone attitude — many of the looks were styled with combat boots. Printed silk shorts, sheer embroidered leggings and jeans came in slouchy fits, in mineral washes and foiled silver leather. And the T-shirts were indeed cool, elevated to the top of the line in ultrafine silk.

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