“Jackets are the new item to have,” said Derek Lam at his pre-fall presentation. To prove it, he showed them in an assortment of colors and fabrics, all with detachable mink collars. Photos by The Sartorialist’s Scott Schuman of men at Pitti Uomo, especially the Japanese editors, inspired Lam’s dandy jackets, tailored coats and tuxedo-striped trousers, many worked in sturdy Glen plaids and herringbones. “Men’s wear is more exciting than women’s,” noted Lam. Was he hinting at a new collection? “No,” he said. “I enjoy designing men’s wear-inspired clothes for women.” There was also an old-world Florentine theme going on with rich brocades in blue and gold, while he played around with denim as well, tearing it into strips and jacquarding it into a new fabric.

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