Christian Dior has cleaned house for pre-fall, distilling Dior’s iconic allure in graphic, uncluttered ways. Still under the direction of the design studio, headed by Bill Gaytten, the accent is on covered-up silhouettes — either elongated and skinny with lots of pencil skirts that pushed past the knee; or shorter and flared, based on bell-shaped skirts.

This time, the famous Bar jacket came snug, with a plain, rounded collar and a miniaturized peplum, often layered over a turtleneck. Knitwear abounded as body-skimming dresses and skirts, and capelike shrugs. The simple, feminine shapes brought texture (tweedlike effects via knits, bouclés and jacquards) and color (mostly neutrals and grays, with shots of violet, fuchsia and red) to the fore. Come evening, it was all about spare, almost severe columns, with measured touches of draping, fringe and embroidery.

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