“My collections are always about finding a balance between femininity and austerity,” said Damir Doma while showing his pre-fall collection at his Parisian studio. He used masculine fabrics such as chunky corduroy, light denim and black leather, some mixed with fluid silk in dark inky shades. They were often all worked together on the same piece, such as a zip-front trompe l’oeil dress, a look derivative of his last runway effort, but here it was done in a more streamlined approach. “I wanted to take away a bit of the complication of layering and focus on clean, sculptural volumes,” Doma said. Examples of such sculptural volume: the ultra high-waisted pleated skirt in bonded wool felt and cotton, and the rounded sleeves on padded and quilted knitwear mixed with sensual silks in big pajama stripes.

A sporty yet luxurious feel came via outerwear in comfortable cocoon shapes with graphic leather details like elbow and back patches, flap pockets and piping.

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