For his first pre-fall collection for Belstaff, chief creative officer Martin Cooper remained respectful to the brand’s outerwear heritage but was not “beholden to it,” he said. Thus there were several great coats with an urban, almost utilitarian touch, i.e., a chic beige bonded wool one with graphic leather inserts, which Cooper showed with a tie blouse and leather pants to reinforce a play between masculine and feminine sensibilities. The designer also ventured into pattern via a plum camouflage used on a jacquard coat and as a print on blouses, while a laminated knit added a cool textural feel to a sweater.

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