Erdem Moralioglu was inspired by the saturated colors of film stills from Nagisa Oshima’s rather confronting 1965 film, “Pleasures of the Flesh.”

“That was the starting point for the palette and the mood, and the idea of mixing things that don’t really go together, of things that are a little bit wrong,” Moralioglu said. This wrongish-right approach resulted in a collection full of surprising textures in hues of fuchsia, emerald, navy and acid yellow.

Moralioglu added that pre-fall is an opportunity for him “to play with techniques that I wouldn’t necessarily have the opportunity to explore in the main collection. And I like the idea of looking at something I haven’t explored before, like tailored dresses or frock coats.” He also developed different fabric variations. Silk crepe, for instance, was embroidered onto PVC to create an impression of enlarged fish-scale-like sequins on printed skirts and dresses, while lace was heat-fused onto crepe.

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