A severe femininity ran through Gucci’s pre-fall collection. Putting aside her penchant for the Seventies and rock ’n’ roll, creative director Frida Giannini focused on Fifties-inspired shapes and a sophisticated combination of sober greens with an intense teal and hints of leopard. “This is a contemporary femme fatale who relishes her own dark mood,” said Giannini. “Armed with an invulnerable aesthetic, she has an elusive sensuality — like the protagonist in a game of pursuit.”

Silhouettes fit close to the body: a feminine dress in stretch flannel had an off-the-shoulder neckline, while a high-waisted pencil skirt in silk cadi was paired with an alpaca wool wraparound top. To highlight the glamorous retro mood, there was also a jaguar-printed mink cape worn over a round-neck angora top and stretch flannel wrap skirt with a ruffled detail on one side, while an oversize wool coat with cigarette pants added a more masculine touch.

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