There’s a renegade spirit to Phillip Lim’s latest 3.1 collection, inspired by motorcycle culture and New York street gangs during the late 18th century. Lim deftly worked traditional moto style into his leather jackets and slim pants with quilted knees, while demonstrating the theme more softly with other looks: a landscape printed silk chiffon tunic had a leather banded collar; a cool, elongated jacket was done in a spongy techno jersey, with phoenix wings embroidered on its sleeves. Throughout, Lim added strong shoulders to everything, from a double-faced trenchcoat to a sweatshirt dress.

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