Graphic, precise, modern. Francisco Costa riffed beautifully on all three, pushing spring’s overtly sexy turn into a more serene territory for pre-fall. “I went back to some of the classics of Calvin…reinventing them through construction and shape,” Costa said postshow. He stuck to a palette of black, white and shades of brown, and played with volume for terrific belted coats, some of which were bonded in contrast colors for visual impact. Wide turtlenecks added a monastic sensibility to some of the looks, yet the result was still sensuous and feminine.

Graphic, precise, modern. Francisco Costa riffed beautifully on all three, pushing spring’s overtly sexy turn into a more serene territory for pre-fall. “I went back to some of the classics of Calvin…reinventing them through construction and shape,” Costa said postshow. He stuck to a palette of black, white and shades of brown, and played with volume for terrific belted coats, some of which were bonded in contrast colors for visual impact. Wide turtlenecks added a monastic sensibility to some of the looks, yet the result was still sensuous and feminine.

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