Graphic, precise, modern. Francisco Costa riffed beautifully on all three, pushing spring’s overtly sexy turn into a more serene territory for pre-fall. “I went back to some of the classics of Calvin…reinventing them through construction and shape,” Costa said postshow. He stuck to a palette of black, white and shades of brown, and played with volume for terrific belted coats, some of which were bonded in contrast colors for visual impact. Wide turtlenecks added a monastic sensibility to some of the looks, yet the result was still sensuous and feminine.

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