“I like to push myself to think about things that aren’t so pretty and classical,” said Derek Lam of his pre-fall collection, in which he worked motifs that are both pretty and classic — Chantilly lace and argyle, for example — with a casual edge. He cut them up and sewed them back together in paneled shells and form-fitting dresses with sleek yet winding seams. A sweatshirt came in bonded lace, offering a relaxed femininity to counter the urban slick of leather shorts and knife-pleat skirts.

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