Now that Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough are in the retail business with one store on New York’s Madison Avenue and another in Soho on the way, they’ve adjusted their design perspective to a degree. Just a few seasons ago the designers favored the idea of veering in wildly different directions from runway to runway, but now they’re “focusing on the idea of flow,” said Hernandez. “Having continuity from one season to another,” added McCollough. They proudly proclaimed that their pre-collections are about “product” — clothes, new shoes done with their new license, jewelry, scarves and terrific updates on the PS1 bag — that are commercial in design and no less desirable for it.
Pre-fall combined some of the most successful elements from their past seasons, such as crackled leather biker jackets and the fit-and-flare dresses from spring, now done in a graffiti logo print, a lightweight tweed and an abstract jacquard in a blur of ocean blues that came from photographs they shot in Fiji. Some of the dresses had wrap constructions and were worn with black leather obi belts. There were also simple, black-and-white viscose sweaters that looked great when tucked into a patchwork A-line skirt with a car wash hem.