“Maria Callas performing in Argentina,” peppered with a bit of Martha Graham, is how Zac Posen described his pre-fall collection. The inspirations could have easily swung overly theatrical, but except for a few billowing sleeves, Posen demonstrated control. The designer continued to build on his evening assortment with bias-cut dresses, cocktail frocks and the kind of sculpted gowns he is known for, like the body-hugging floor-length satin number that he layered with Chantilly-embroidered black lace. Posen also stepped up his daywear with a structured leather suit and a chic navy double-faced wool suit with a high mink collar.

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