A photo of Diana Vreeland wearing a red Lurex evening dress in her all-red boudoir-living room was the starting point for this opulent Balmain collection. While the image of the American fashion legend was inspiration, it marked a return to a more Parisian mood for designer Olivier Rousteing. Done in deep hues of red, fuchsia and turquoise, this ultrarich lineup was an ode to Seventies French couture. Satin draped skirts and languid harem pants were worn with strong-shouldered jackets overloaded with textured embroidery, a house signature. In this abundance of silk lamé, textured Lurex and quilted satin, Rousteing worked his power look with Asiatic elements: origami constructions in sculptural jackets, kimono-style tailored jackets, obilike cummerbund belts. As for the intricate mix of geometric leather patchwork, graphic gold piping and bamboo-leaf embroideries, they were actually inspired by furniture. The leather was sometimes printed with woodgrain, while most of the accessories were done in a turtle shell-imprinted plastic.

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