Staying close to the codes she made her own at Celine, Phoebe Philo evolved her aesthetic with a subtle hand. The news was in the details: a slouchy, mannish double-breasted suit, for instance, was rendered with pearl buttons. Philo offered some strong coats, including a capelike style and a Mongolian lamb version cinched with a matching wide belt. There were also several pleated skirts, like the leather one shown with a shrunken black knit top with slight frays at the hem — a deliberate detail that added a quiet romantic touch to the collection.

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