For his first pre-fall collection with Gibò Co. SpA, his former licensee partner in the Eighties, Jean Paul Gaultier took a look into his rich archive to reedit some of his iconic pieces from past collections. His “garbage bag” dress from the early Eighties, for example, was updated here in an ultrasoft glossy leather. The rest of the lineup was equally playful, featuring lots of asymmetric looks such as half leather jackets layered over suits, while pin-striped suits — a Gaultier fixation — were worked as total looks, with the suit motif repeated on shirts and knit turtlenecks. Bold metallic zippers were used on elegant long fluid dresses and tunics, as well as on chunky wool peacoats and leather biker jackets to create a sort of “hard wear” elegance.

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